79 Z28 fuelpump pushrod dropped (how do I raise it?) - Page 2

griff,the fuel pump rod moves that far,i never would have known that.i figured at most would have been 1/8" to1/4" stroke.learn something new everyday.

I can't tell you for sure what it was moving, but it was noticeable enough to say it was over 1/4 each easily. If removing the return line tommorrow does not work, I will tear the pump back off again

I pulled the pump  - to be continued. :)

OK -  so it appears AutoZ*ne caused me hours and hours of work and stress by giving me a bad pump.
I now have a new one installed and it pumps the hell out of gas. BUT
The Camaro will not start even with the new fuel supply to the carb. The carb is now receiving gas, but the car will still not start. I have pulled the brand new fuel filter out and tried to start it without it, with no success. If I take a gas can and dump gas in the carb the car will start and roll until it burns off the gas I dumped in. Anybody have a clue why it still will not start? Do you think there is some type of jam between the fuel feed and the carb? Maybe a choke problem even? I am lost at this point, but real happy the pup is really blowing out the gas. For info, the carb is a rebuilt Quadrajet that was previously running just fine.
Thamks a lot for all the help so far, and anymore you have to offer.

when you move the accelerator linkage can you see fuel  squirting down the carb.maybe the xcelerator pump is bad.maybe the float is stuck in the off position.try tapping on the carb. with a screwdriver handle in the front area of the carb.you said you pulled the filter,is this a inline filter or the brass filter in the fuel inlet side of the carb.pull the big fitting on the front of the carb and there is usaully a filter behind it,it could be stopped up.

I don't think I can see any fuel squirting at all. Here is the filter I pulled yesterday.
 

 
I had replaced this before I started all this. For the time being it is not even in there, I had taken it out to eliminate that as a possible problem.This carb was rebuilt, ran fine and has very few miles on it, it just has been sitting quite a long time without use.

if it has been sitting for a long period of time chances are something is gummed up and stuck.gas deteriorates stuff when it sets to long.i would pull the top off the carb and clean it out.the needle and seat is stuck shut ,the xcelerator pump could be bad from sitting up to long.you found this out with the fuel pump,just because its new dosent mean its good.i know the carb was rebuilt but it has been sitting up

SUCCESS - sort of
 
I started tapping around all over the carb but it wasn't helping, I could now see that neither jet was not spraying. I took a screwdriver and opened the back butterfly and stuck it in and tapped lightly. I could see something going up and down a little. I then repeated this in the front butterfly, then pulled the linkage and it squirted. I knew that was it then and went and tried the ignition and it fired right up and runs great. But it won't move. I had to laugh after all that work and the car wouldn't move.
Anyway, I can feel all the throttle linkage moving just fine, but I do not have any gears at all. It looks to me like the tranny has barely any fluid in it at all so I added a quart, but no success yet. My brother said it did that before, and he added some fluid and it moved. I have to go get some today and I'll update you guys.
Thanks a lot for all the advice, lets hope I can get it moving.
 

if its bad low it want move and 1 quart want help it.when newly rebuilt it takes about 7 quarts to get it to move.they hold 10-11 quarts.

It seems like when you go to fix one thing... that should be a 5 minute job..... it turns in to 10 other things and a 2 week job...
 
Glad to hear you got it worked out...
G

The Camaro is now moving fine (and it hauls ass), I added 3 quarts, and I think it needs more, but for now I have other problems to resolve. Somebody replaced the motor in this, and there are a lot of cut wires I am trying to figure out. Is the number on the manifold the one I need to identify the motor?
Thanks for all the help so far
 

The number on the block is for ID.  It should be forward of the pass side valve cover.  This is the not always the casting number which will tell you everything you need to know to id it, but it will be a start.  the casting number can be seen to the rear of the driver side valve cover.  both located on the actual block.

This might help http://www.nastyz28.com/camaro/wire/78w-eng.jpg engine bay wiring diagram.

quote:

ORIGINAL: jxdesign

Somebody replaced the motor in this, and there are a lot of cut wires I am trying to figure out. Is the number on the manifold the one I need to identify the motor?
Thanks for all the help so far

 
The vin number is usually stamped on top of the block deck on the passanger side front of the block under the alternator..Take a look at the photos in this link (it's about half way down the page) .http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php.
 
this gives you an idea of what the motor was originally for.  it does not of course tell you anything that has been done to the engine...but it is a place to start.....
 
Greg
 
 

Thanks you guys for the continuing flow of information - I'll check back in soon

0137460391
 
V0423CKK
 
Best I can see right now

i couldnt find 0137460391.did this #come from the back of the motor on the drivers side on the bell housing part of the block.you can go to   www.mortec.com  and look up these #

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html#ecode

I got these numbers from the front of the block behind the alternator on a little ledge, I will check them again if you do not think they are correct

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/chevy-engine-codes-suffix-2.php This should be the suffix codes I tried to cut and paste but it didnt work

block # is on the drivers side, rear of the engine,on the bell housing part of the block.the # you got will tell where it came from,when it was built and what car it was put in.the # at the back of the block will tell you what the engine is.

The number on the back of the block is the casting #  it may be a number which spans through a number of years and also cubic inch displacements. The numbers he gave if they were correct would be the more accurate of telling what engine it is, JX what are you looking for ?  I think the 0137460391 may be a letter instead of a #.

I guess what I am looking for is to find out if this is the original 350, or if it is something else.
OK these may be better

013Z460391       and       VO423CKK

The CKK comes back as a 74 Monte Carlo 350 or a 73 BAX?

I got flint april 23 http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/chevy-engine-codes-suffix-2.php   72 or 73    look under the ckk code  the longer one throws me off unless you disregard the 0

the zero is just a dot from the mold