Check Engine Light

My CEL came on today as I was driveing but when i tested it no codes showed up... The onlything that my dash told me is that the alternator was running kinda low. Anyone know why i didnt get any codes even tho the CEL came on?

how did you check the code? some codes are harder to get out than others, espically if they are intermitant. I gave up and just went and bought a code reader. if this is happening a lot, or your planning a intake swap to TPI or anything, i suggest your buy one yourself. WELL worth the money in my opinion

I just took it checker and asked to use their code reader

So anyone know why I didn't get a code when the CEL came on?

Did you at least get code 12? If you did it correctly you should get that code.

Oh forgot to menchion I didn't do it myself checker did. And he said no codes came up. I bet you he did it wrong. How much do thouse things cost? I may aswell do it myself. Or can you guys show me how to do the "paper clip" thing?

put a paper clip in the two top right "plugs". turn the key to the on position but to not start it. It will flash the code to you. You WILL get code 12, which will apper to you as 1 flash, a pause, then 2 more flashes. then others will flash in the same fashion.

Each code will flash 3 times before  moving on to the next code. So if you see code 12 and you see it againg that is ok. when you see it a third time then the next code stored should come up. When it starts to flash code 12 again then it is back to the begining.

ok thanks I'll go do that in a few

i got the code 32 which is an EGR failure...whats an EGR XD

There is a solenoid for the EGR. Check all the vacuum lines. There may be those plastic tubes and they will break. and test for power to the solenoid. The solenoid should always have power and is supplied with a ground by the computer.

Codes from the trusty old Haynes Manual

code 12 = no distributor reference pulse - This code will flash when the diagnostic terminal is grounded with ignition On and the engine not running. If additional trouble codes are stored, they will appear after this code has flased three times.

code 32 (carbureted models) - differential pressure sensor.- Defective differential pressure sensor; poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective ECM

code 32 (FI models except 3.1 V6) - EGR sytem - Restricted vacuum hose to EGR solenoid or valve; poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective EGR valve; defective ECM

code 32 (3.1 V6) - Digital EGR system - Poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective EGR valve; defective ECM

Its a V8 TBI and everything looks fine on it and so far I've really only had it happen once but when it did I felt a lost in power which is now back meh it might have just stuck for a second

Try this because I had to replace the EGR valve and the TPS ( throttle Positioning Sensor ) and neither one of those are cheap. But anywho, crank your car pop the hood and look at the EGR valve, it has a vacuum line on top of the pot of the EGR valve itself. Take it off while the engine is running. And put your thumb or finger over the hose ( but try not to bend it too much because its a cheap plastic hose that can be brittle and break easy ) and have someone inside the car and tell them to rev the engine slightly and you should feel if it sucks your finger a little bit. If it does, then your lines are good and you're getting vacuum.  And to check to see if it the EGR going bad itself. There are three holes under the pot. Hook the vacuum line back up to the EGR valve. Put your finger in one of the three holes under the pot and have the person rev the engine up again and let off. The diaphragm inside  should go up and down. If it doesnt take the vacuum hose off again and try to press and depress the diaphragm with your finger. If it stuck. You'll need to look at replacing it. Which isnt fun or cheap.

Hope this helped!

Z3R0

Ya know it hasnt been 30days since i got it from the dealer....I'll just get them to replace it for free XD