Door problems

My diver Door opens fine but will not close all the way you should be able to tell in the pics. And then my passenger door will close all the way but when you open it will drag on the front panel. what should i check or replace?
 
Driver Close
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z46/patrickb2269/camaro/P1000116.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z46/patrickb2269/camaro/P1000117.jpg
 
Passenger Door
close
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z46/patrickb2269/camaro/P1000110.jpg
Opening
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z46/patrickb2269/camaro/P1000111.jpg

passenger side, you hinges are just out of adjustment.
you need to remove the fender, losen the 6 door hinge bolts slightly
then use another person or a floor jack to lift the back of the door up,
tighten the bolts, test to see if it closes better.
repeat steps untill you are satisfied.
you may need to play with the hight until it is just right
over time the door sags, it just a normal camaro thing

if the drivers door isnt closing all
the way you may just need to adjust the door pin or whatever it is called.
The metal pin on the door jam that the door striker latches on to
You can loosen it up just by unscrewing then move it inward slightly
this will pull the back of the door in farther

on your car, I'm sure your hinges are beyond adjustment. it is extremely common for the hinges to go bad on second gen Camaros. those doors are very heavy and the hinges wear out. the easiest test is to open the door up and lift it up. if it does lift up, then your hinges are gone not just out of adjustment
 
 
 buy yourself some new hinges. sometimes the hinges are rebuildable with kits they sell, but if you don't know what to look for, or how to do it, you're better off just buying the new hinges

the door that won't close all the way just needs the striker adjusted. I'm not sure if I remember correctly (it's been a loooong time) but I think you have a torx head on it instead of an allen head. I think they used torx all the way through at least 1981

OK Thinks, so next question is how would i go about removing the fender?

why are you removing the fender?

in frenchsquared  post said "you need to remove the fender" but if i dont have to to get to the hinges then i guess start looking for some new hinges.

no, no, no. do you realize how bad that would be if people had to remove the fender of a car to take off a door? the fender bolts to the nose, so would you have to take that off too? doesn't make sense now huh?
 
unbolt them from the cowl (leaving them attatched to the door), then scribe around the hinges at the door so when you go to put them back on, you will have something to go by to get them pretty close to lined up when you re-assemble them

one more thing, if you have to do this by yourself, use a hydraulic jack at about the mid-point of the door to help support it when you unbolt the hinges. don't forget ro put something like a towel or blanket under the door to stop the jack from chipping the paint

It looks as though your fender is damaged or out of adjustment, maybe both. Also, the gap looks wider at the top of the door than the bottom, this indicates gross misalignment. Most likely bad hinges like 1969 SS said. Start with repairing the hinges on both doors. When you are finished the gap between the door and fender should be fairly even, top to bottom. The fender looks like it was pushed in ahead of the door, if this is the case you will need to straighten it to match the door. Easiest way to do this is with a slide hammer. That will pull it out so the front edge of the door will not hit the fender. Then the bodywork begins.

You first want to determine that your hinges are worn. As already said, you want to lift the door up to see if it moves. With the door open, stand at the end of the door and lift the door from the bottom like you're trying to lift the car (almost). If you can move the door and feel slop before the car itself moves, the hinges are worn. Having someone watch the hinges as you lift will help to determine where the slop is. Nine times out of ten, the bronze bushings will be worn (or gone) and the hinge pin will have a groove worn into it. Your lower bushings wouldn't be worn nearly as bad as the upper ones, since the uppers take the majority of the weight of the door. But, as long as you're messing with it, you'll be happier if you put new bushings in all four. You can buy replacement bushing/pin kits from several GM/Camaro supply companies, and replacement isn't very difficult. Replacing the bushings and pins is going to be a hell of a lot easier than replacing and readjusting with new hinges. Not to mention the big cost difference.

I see what you mean in cost difference new or re-man hinges i see are $100-200, and the Pin & Bushing Repair Kit im seeing about for 20-30.

as I stated earlier, they do make the repair kits but I just think that they might be a little more than you can handle, just from the questions you have asked in this thread. also, if you have to pay someone to do it for you, the hinges will be cheaper to do on your own.
 
you also have to be able to tell if your hinges are rebuildable before you actually try to rebuild them. I hate to see people spend money when they don't have to, but in your case I think you might be better off paying more money upfront.
 
good luck with twhatever thing you choose

Patrick, where are you finding the repair kits? www.ecklerscamaro.com has the repair kit to do one complete door, both hinges (2 pins, 4 bushings) for $9.99, so $20 (plus shipping) does the whole job. Considering that each door hinge has only three wear items that cause door droop, one pin and two bushings, a repair kit would cure your sloppy hinge problem. I'm only telling you what I would do, from having gone both the bushings and hinges way, and I know the aggravation of readjusting the door. Only you know your skill level for replacing the pins, but it's no brain surgery. And new hinges aren't going to necessarily fit exactly like your current ones, so you'll be chasing the door back and forth to set the gaps right again. Whereas, your current hinges are already set in place, and replacing the bushings/pins should put the doors back-in-whack, which would wind up being less of a hair-pulling experience. Research some more, and look at the pins on your hinges to see if you can make sense of it all. This article may be helpful in letting you know what's in store if you do decide to replace the complete hinge.
www.superchevy.com/technical/paint_body/bodywork/0505sc_hinge/index.html

Key point here is to check the hole the bushing goes into. Sometimes when the bushing breaks apart it & leaves the pin to wear into the metal of the hinge. The hole wears egg-shaped and will not hold a new bushing. Also, be prepared to adjust the doors even if you do rebuild the hinges. Most cars of this age have had someone adjust them before to compensate for sag. By rebuilding the hinges you may need to readjust.

quote:

ORIGINAL: JRs72RS

Key point here is to check the hole the bushing goes into. Sometimes when the bushing breaks apart it & leaves the pin to wear into the metal of the hinge. The hole wears egg-shaped and will not hold a new bushing.

that's good info for him before he gets too involved

Thanks for all the info, soon as i get it back from the tranny shop ill give the hinges a good look over and see what i come up with.