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Low oil pressure

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Spartan66
2/19/2008 4:30:07 PM
I did an oil change from conventional to mobil 1 synthetic about 2000 miles ago/in december, got a new AC Delco filter too. Then the other day i bought a can of Engine Restore and threw it in there. I dont know if this is related but my oil pressure guage wont go above the first hash mark even in higher rpms and when im at a stop it drops down between the 1st hash mark and 0. Any ideas what could be up?
z28pete
2/19/2008 4:46:16 PM
Drain that junk out of the crankcase, refill with clean oil, regular or synthetic, 10W30 or 10W40, and change the oil filter. If the pressure doesn't come back, verify the accuracy of the oil pressure gage by testing the pressure with a mechanical oil pressure gage. If the gage checks out OK, then there is a chance that your engine restore wiped out some of the bearings. Also a possibility that the pump drive gear got stripped, or that the oil pump went bad (unlikely but can happen).
02StanGT
2/19/2008 4:47:52 PM
Oil level good? Does it burn any oil that you can notice? Maybe something is f'ed up keeping the sensor from seeing that much pressure. Or the sensor is FUBAR.
MassholeLT1
2/19/2008 5:01:33 PM
I have heard of that engine restore clogging filters (never mess with that junk), but you should expect a small decrease in pressure from the switch to synthetic as well. However the fact that your oil pressure (if accurate) never goes above the first hash mark (20 psi?) doesnt bode well for the health of your engine. I would change out that filter ASAP and see what happens...
Spartan66
2/19/2008 5:02:48 PM
well, i had lower pressure before the change, it hung out around the 1st hash but when i was in higher rpms or cruising it would be around the 1/2 mark. Then i did the change and it still hung out around between the 1st and 1/2 mark. Now under about 1500rpms (which is usually what its at around 40mph for me) it will barely get above the 1st mark and at a stop it will go below the mark. Im not leaking but on start up i do have smoke but its white (im guessing i have a large volume of white smoke due to my absent cat) I havent noticed any leaks or blue/black smoke and the car still idles fine. I can do an oil change this weekend if need be and see if thats my problem.. but i spent like 5 bucks on this engine restore and i wanna see if its something else first lol...
 
Edit: also it feels sorta sluggish like it accelerates slower, but that could just be me freakin about about things.
importmd
2/19/2008 5:33:29 PM
white smoke sounds like blown head gasket.  i when i switched from normal oil to amzoil my oil psi went up, i gained 15 psi at cold start up.
armynatguard18
2/19/2008 11:16:27 PM
Same thing here, ever since that thing that happened with my oil sending unit or switch mine has barely been under the 1/2 mark. Used to be well above it when running at speed
Spartan66
2/20/2008 12:39:39 AM
well i only get white smoke when its real cold out and upon start up. BUT i do have a ticking/knocking coming from the passenger side of my engine (could be exhaust since i have a gap where my cat used to be). Today after work i started it up and my oil was at the 1/2 mark.. i let it sit for a couple of minutes and then left and it stayed up around that level this time... im really friggin lost as to what it could be..
Spartan66
2/20/2008 2:03:56 PM
Hey i was just thinkin.. could the engine restore cause the viscosity or the oil to rise in the engine as it works thru the cylinders filling in the cracks? like the oil rings are struggling to go up n down because now their not only spreading and squeegying the oil but also the thicker sludgier engine restore? and once it works its way out it should go back to normal no? i mean i just put it in on like saturday..
importmd
2/20/2008 2:18:32 PM
what? just drain it if you think its causing an issue.
Spartan66
2/20/2008 2:22:43 PM
ok what i was saying was you know how the rings distribute oil to the cylinder walls and what not, well i was thinkin if its simply that they are struggling distributing the oil/ER and it will pass once the ER is done filling in the cylinder walls. I will do an oil change this weekend unless i see a difference but i just want to make sure im not going to drain out all the oil like 2000 miles before i have to since id have to get a new filter and all the oil all over again and that doesnt sound to appealing to me because im trying to save money for my CAI.
MassholeLT1
2/20/2008 3:26:40 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: importmd

what? just drain it if you think its causing an issue.


+1 Spartan for the 2nd time- DRAIN THAT **** OUT OF YOUR CAR!!!! It is HORRIBLE for your engine....
 
 
It's main ingredient is PTFE, commonly known as the Dupont trademark: Teflon. These product have tiny particles of the stuff, or "flakes" in the additive, literally a solid suspended in a liquid. While these products may have some short term benifits in quieted engine parts etc, most have been found to do long term damage to your engine. Some literally even tell you to shake the product on the back of the can. This solid can clog up your filters, and oil passageways in lifters and other areas of the engine. They do much more harm than they could ever do good, just change your oil every 3k and use a quality filter and that is the best thing you can do for your engine. 



READ:

Snake Oil!:Is That Additive Really A Negative?
Article and Photos by Fred Rau
ROAD RIDER/August 1992/Pg 15


Information for this article was compiled from reports and studies by the University of Nevada Desert Research Center, DuPont Chemical Company, Avco Lycoming (aircraft engine manufacturers), North Dakota State University, Briggs and Stratton (engine manufacturers), the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station, California State Polytechnic College and the National Aeronautics and Space Administration's Lewis Research Center.

Road Rider does not claim to have all the answers. Nor do we care to presume to tell you what to do. We have simply tried to provide you with all the information we were able to dredge up on this subject, in hopes it will help you in making your own, informed decision.

You Can't Tell The Players Without A Program
On starting this project, we set out to find as many different oil additives as we could buy. That turned out to be a mistake. There were simply too many avail able! At the very first auto parts store we visited, there were over two dozen different brand names available. By the end of the day, we had identified over 40 different oil additives for sale and realized we needed to rethink our strategy.
First of all, we found that if we checked the fine print on the packages, quite a number of the additives came from the same manufacturer. Also, we began to notice that the additives could be separated into basic "groups" that seemed to carry approximately the same ingredients and the same promises.

In the end, we divided our additives into four basic groups and purchased at least three brands from three different manufacturers for each group. We defined our four groups this way:

1.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with PTFE (Teflon TM) added.

2.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with zinc dialkyldithiophosphate added.

3.) Products containing (as near as we could determine) much the same additives as are already found in most major brands of engine oil, though in different quantities and combinations.

4.) Products made up primarily of solvents and/or detergents.

There may be some differences in chemical makeup within groups, but that is impossible to tell since the additive manufacturers refuse to list the specific ingredients of their products. We will discuss each group individually.

The PTFE Mystery
Currently, the most common and popular oil additives on the market are those that contain PTFE powders suspended in a regular, over-the-counter type, 50-rated petroleum or synthetic engine oil. PTFE is the common abbreviation used for Polytetrafloeraethylene, more commonly known by the trade name "Teflon," which is a registered trademark of the DuPont Chemical Corporation. Among those oil additives we have
MassholeLT1
2/20/2008 3:31:42 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: Spartan66
id have to get a new filter and all the oil all over again and that doesnt sound to appealing to me because im trying to save money for my CAI.


FYI Spartan this why many people here think you couldnt wrench your way out of a wet paper bag- "I cant afford to change my oil 'cause im saving for a Cold Air Intake"....
Spartan66
2/20/2008 4:37:09 PM
i CAN afford to do an oil change but it takes away from my financial "cushion" i dont make ALOT of money so spending it needs to be well planned out because i have bills to pay too. Ive got some coupons for shucks and mobil 1 and a fram filter, ill go buy that and swap it out this weekend...
MassholeLT1
2/20/2008 5:30:49 PM
thats what I like to hear- it just doesnt look right when you want to do performance mods over basic maintainence- get that Engine Restore out of your engine and get a fresh filter on there.....
SpecterGT260
2/20/2008 5:37:17 PM
no kidding. change ur oil and put fresh synthetic in it. and the ticking is an exhaust leak most likely
importmd
2/20/2008 6:48:46 PM
+1 for masshole.  if 20 bucks hurts your finacial cushion maybe you shouldnt be spending your hard earned money on your car.
z28pete
2/20/2008 7:13:13 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: Spartan66

ok what i was saying was you know how the rings distribute oil to the cylinder walls and what not, well i was thinkin if its simply that they are struggling distributing the oil/ER and it will pass once the ER is done filling in the cylinder walls.

 
Rings have nothing to do with oil pressure, and they do not distribute oil to the cylinder walls. The spinning crankshaft slings oil to the cylinder walls and lubricates them. The job of the oil rings is to wipe excessive oil off the cylinder walls, and the job of the compression rings is to provide a seal between the piston and cylinder.
Spartan66
2/21/2008 2:32:13 AM
yeah thats what i ment, when it squeegies it... but never mind that theory im just going to drain it. 20 bucks doesnt hurt my finances it just pushes me close to being broke lol.. right now ive got 174 in the bank, next pay check will be 360 on friday so that will be a prime time to do it. As for the ticking i know i have an exhaust leak (where the cat would be its just a gap with a small pipe thats poorly welded holding them "together". Idk if my exhuast manifolds have a leak but im pretty damn sure its coming from the engine.. if i had a camera id record it and post it.
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