RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69
Login  | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69 - 11/6/2007 7:34:08 AM
|
|
|
jonnyNITRO
Posts: 266
Score: 0
Joined: 3/27/2007
Status: offline
|
WULFFTRUBLE: nice picts.
Maldito X: I only needed to replace the passenger side quarter. The driver's side was in relatively good shape. Just a few dings and dents to fix. I really don't have much of the body picts as of yet. They are coming.
The rubber hose is for smacking my kids when they touch my car....ha, ha,ha. Just kidding.
I wrap a piece of sandpaper around it to get the small curve areas, such as below the rear windows along the quarter flare. It's flexible and yet maintains a flat surface in contact with the body when used properly.
I know there are plenty of custom sanding blocks on the market (ton of cash) but I'd rather use some basic ingenuity to save the cash for other parts and paint supplies.
_____________________________
John Rose
See me on Low Budget Garage http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j59o6iz13o and support good 'ol American steel.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69 - 11/6/2007 7:42:51 AM
|
|
|
Blade
Posts: 2300
Score: 1
Joined: 7/29/2006
From: Red, White, and Blue (USA)
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: WULFFTRUBLE
heres a couple of pics of the restore i did on one of mine
kinda scary lookin sry to hijack your post but thought it would be good to see what they look like with no skin
damn!
_____________________________
June ROTH!
#21, GONE, BUT YOU WILL NEVER BE FORGOTTEN!
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69 - 11/6/2007 7:44:46 AM
|
|
|
jonnyNITRO
Posts: 266
Score: 0
Joined: 3/27/2007
Status: offline
|
This is the spray gun I borrowed to shot the primer. I think he said it was $19 at Harbor Freight tools. I love the HVLP guns, they spray so much better than the old cup guns and I get ALL the paint on the car. (nothing left in the bottom of the cup)
Thumbnail Image
 Attachment (1)
_____________________________
John Rose
See me on Low Budget Garage http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j59o6iz13o and support good 'ol American steel.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69 - 11/7/2007 12:41:17 AM
|
|
|
Maldito X
Posts: 26
Score: 0
Joined: 10/29/2007
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: WULFFTRUBLE
heres a couple of pics of the restore i did on one of mine
kinda scary lookin sry to hijack your post but thought it would be good to see what they look like with no skin
Holy cow. That is crazy looking, reminds me of freddy krueger lol. Awesome.
Johnny, are you learning as you go? Or do you already have relatively good knowledge about bodywork? It's good that you know how and where to spend your money. If you bought every tool you needed to do the job without improvising, your fundings would be cut short very fast I think.
What are you going to be doing next?
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Time for some new sheetmetal on my '69 - 11/7/2007 9:16:01 AM
|
|
|
jonnyNITRO
Posts: 266
Score: 0
Joined: 3/27/2007
Status: offline
|
I do have some past experience with body work but, I am not expert.
I just apply what I've learned over the years by doing it myself and watching some of the pros work.
Also, talking to paint supply reps at car shows can give you some insight as to how each product is designed to be used.
I had an awesome job during my college days working for Fennel Enterprises in So. Cal. I watched the body-guys coat and sand body parts until they were smooth as glass. I can only hope that my panels will be as good.
If I had to explain the process, it would be like this:
• Replace panels or weld in section with major damage (ie. sliced, torn or rusted metal)
• Hammer & Dolly dents to get the panel flat as possible
• Clean the metal with metal prep or lacquer thinner
• 2 coats of epoxy primer
• first layer of Bondo (shaping)
• sand with longboard (40-60 grit)
• sand with longboard (80-100 grit)
• Everlast Glazing Putty for large scratches and minor repairs (sands like chalk using 120 grit)
• 1 coat of sandable primer (primer filler)
• Guide coat with can or contrasting color (spray can)
• Longboard again with 120 grit then 220 grit
• pin holes and last chance fixes with the Glazing Putty
• sand again
• Sealer primer entire surface
Now it's ready to paint!
Disclaimer: *This is my method. Someone else could do it differently, so take what you will from it.*
It really just takes patience. Body work is the most critical part of the process because paint will NOT hide any imperfections!
I'm almost done with the rear section, next I'll check the roof and then the doors... then, the fenders, valance and hood. Any order. Whatever I feel like working on at the time. This is a weekend project for me, especially now that the days are shorter.
_____________________________
John Rose
See me on Low Budget Garage http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j59o6iz13o and support good 'ol American steel.
|
|
|
|
|
Printable Version
